Nelsonville: Nostalgia and novelty

Stroll through Nelsonville's Public Square and you can imagine the years when the town prospered in charming elegance. Although the businesses have changed, the 19th-century Victorian buildings that edge the sidewalks of star-patterned bricks remain. Instead of the canals, coal mining and brick making that first generated the town's economic hum, it's vibrant arts, good food and historical connections that nowadays help fuel Nelsonville's drive.

At the gateway of Hocking Hills, Nelsonville is a perfect destination for a day trip or longer. For a standout experience, aim for a Thursday through Saturday, when most establishments are open. Head off St. Rte. 33 just 13 miles north of Athens along Columbus Street to reach Nelsonville's heart, the Historic Arts District, which includes Public Square. The square, with its flowing fountain and tidy foliage, is a fitting hub to begin a visit.

One of the most prominent vestiges of Nelson­ville's rich history is the former Dew House Hotel at the square's southwest corner. The outside looks much like it did after James Dew bought the building in 1876 and added the third floor and a porch. During his presidential campaign in 1912, Theodore Roosevelt stood on the porch to address the gathered crowd.

Crowds still gather at this corner, but the draw nowadays is the FullBrooks Café, where fair trade organic coffee, specialty drinks and fresh-baked treats are served over the hotel's original check-in desk. A light fare of breakfast, soups and salads is also available. Stop here to keep tabs on area happenings. Many are held at another one of Nelson­ville's architectural gems that resides on the same side of the square.

That would be Stuart's Opera House, which could be seen as a metaphor of Nelsonville's grit, optimism and dreams. In 1879, George Stuart, a Nelsonville native whose showboat Arizona sank in the Erie Canal, turned bum luck into good fortune when he opened the opera house as a performing arts center to bring in quality entertainment of the times. Touring minstrel, vaudeville and musical shows, as well as community performances, graced its stage. When the money dried up in the 1920s, the theater closed for 50 years; fortunately, it was restored and reopened in 1976 as a performing arts center through the efforts of the Hocking Valley Museum of Theatrical History.

Bad times struck once more in 1980 when a fire almost damaged the building beyond hope. Like a phoenix that rises from the ashes, Stuart's Opera House reopened in 1997 after the townspeople rallied to raise the million dollars needed to return it to its glory. The building's first floor is an art gallery with exhibits that change each month. On the second floor, the auditorium's stage continues to be graced by national performers and a venue for the talents of the local theater group, the Athenian Berean Community Players. The painted floral details along the balcony are reminiscent of the time when the opera house first opened.

Just as the opera house is a showcase for local theater talent, several galleries and shops showcase local artists. The Majestic Galleries in the middle of the block features fine contemporary art in what was once a movie theater. The movie sign was painstakingly restored as an admiring nod to its original use. The innovative artwork and building interior are modern, however. Owned by members, the gallery aims to provide an expansive look at art through member exhibits, special events and the annual national juried show.

Starbrick Clay Fine Art Ceramic Gallery is where Nelsonville's 19th-century brick industry is embraced by the present. Using designs that were once stamped into #5 clay and fired into hard, durable pavers, Ann Judy, artist and co-op founder, creates plates and other functional items that are one of her trademarks. Her other clay art has garnered national and international attention. Judy also features work by regional and local artists, and the gallery's bounty has expanded to include textiles, jewelry and other fine arts.

At the back of the gallery is the Spinning Turtle Yarn Shop, where specialized yarns offer an array of choices and inspiration. The pairing of these two businesses into a shared space is merely one indication of how the arts community in Nelsonville supports each other's efforts.

Other offerings of fine art and high-quality craft are next door at Studio 4 Art Gallery. Works of artists from around the country are featured, with an emphasis on Ohioans. The store's focus is to highlight one-of-a-kind pieces that represent a broad range of mediums.

If there's such a thing as one-of-a-kind food, Rhapsody has it. Owned and managed by Hocking College, also in Nelsonville, Rhapsody is where eating is both fine dining and pampering. Located between FullBrooks Café and the Majestic Galleries, Rhapsody's seasonal menu represents world-class, gourmet cuisine artfully prepared by students under the watchful eye of expert chef instructors. The results are sublime. Linger for the live music.

Although much of Nelsonville's vibrancy is linked to its arts community, there are other areas where passions run deep. Instead of heading toward Public Square, stay on St. Rte. 33 and look for the train depot. The Hocking Valley Scenic Railway is a volunteer-run venture. With its collection of restored vintage train cars and history buff conductors, the railroad's brand of entertainment is a lively trip on a diesel-powered train past remnants of the region's bygone days. There are the beehive-shaped furnaces of the brick factories and the small brick houses of nearby Haydenville with starbricks as prominent features on some routes.

Haydenville, once bustling with clay mining activity, is known as Ohio's last company town and is an endpoint of one of the railway's trips. Another train goes past Haydenville as far as Logan. Another makes a stop at Robbins Crossing, the living history village of Hocking College.

Throughout the year, the railroad runs special holiday and event trains. (See sidebar for details of upcoming events this fall.) Take time to browse the displays of artifacts and photographs in the train station for a fuller picture of Nelsonville's and Ohio's train past.

For an evening filled with Nelsonville's vibrant present, pull into town for a Final Friday on the Square. Starting at 5 p.m. on the last Friday of each month, vendors set up stands, musicians pull out their instruments, and galleries and shops stay open until 9 p.m.

Stuart Opera House Events Sept. 3­–6 —  Brick Monkey Theater Presents   Rounding Third Sept. 10 — Stuart’s Free Outdoor Concert Series   with Pokey LaFarge and the South City Three Hocking Valley Scenic Railway Special Events Sept. 5  — Caboose Train Sept. 7 — Labor Day Train Sept. 12, Oct. 10 and 17 — Haunted Hocking Ghost   Express Sept. 19 — Robbery Train Oct. 2 — Fall Wine Train (to benefit Stuart’s Opera   House)

At the end of your visit, you may have a hard time leaving. It's happened before. Ask people who live in Nelsonville. Many have a story of how they came, intending to stay for a little while, and now call Nelsonville home.

Jamie Rhein is a freelance writer from Columbus.
For more information on Nelsonville or other area attractions, contact the Athens County Convention and Visitors Bureau at 800-878-9767 or their Web site, www.athensohio.com. Or contact the Hocking Hills Tourism Association at 800-HOCKING or their Web site, www.1800hocking.com.